2011-12-28

Engine upgrade - part #2 - disassemble



  • Engine out
  • Bell-housing off
  • Clutch off
  • Flywheel off 
  • Mounted engine on stand using bell-housing bolt holes (M10x75 bolts. Use washers to protect the engine.)
  • Intake plenum off
  • Removed loom 
  • Fuel rail and injectors (undo nuts and pull)
  • Coils and plugs
  • Belt and tensioner

Next up was the first challenge - undo the front pulley nut using hand tools . I used a tremendous breaker bar on the pulley nut, and mounted a spanner as opposite lock on the flywheel, using one of  the old flywheel bolts. The spanner was locked against one of the engine stand mounting points. It would have been a lot easier with an impact gun. The pulley bolt shouldn't be reused.



  • Coolant rail + hoses
  • Alternator
  • Starter motor
  • Oil cooler
  • Thermostat
  • Water pump
  • PCV valve + cover
  • Cam cover
  • Front cover

  • Exhaust cam sprocket. 
  • Cam chain
  • Chain guides
  • Oil pump chain tensioner
  • Oil pump sprocket - tough one. I don't know why it was so tight on my engine. 
  • Cam/pump sprocket on main shaft - thin washer on each side.
Cam chain and oil pumps chain

  • Now finally I could remove the sump! Be careful with two bushes with five small o-rings that will fall out.
Cosworth dry sump

Note the o-rings

  • Intake cam sprocket
  • Cam caps and camshafts. Remember location and direction of cam caps.
  • Cam buckets. Remember location of each bucket. The size of the bucket is written on the inside, write down for later.

  • Head off. Torx 55 and breaker bar. But what is that really bad smell!?
Head off

  • Cotters, retainers, springs and valves. Remember location. Hint: Use a strong magnet to remove the cotters.
  • I left the valve seats in place. Hopefully they can stay there.
Removing springs
Ordning och Reda

  • Pistons - will be replaced. Torx 55. Mark them. Direction is already marked as arrows on top of the pistons.
Old pistons

  • Pistons big end bearings. These will also be replaced, but keep location and direction just in case?
  • Since I couldn't reach the crank rear seal bolts when the engine was mounted to the engine stand I took it down on the floor and put it on some pieces of wood. Now it was so light I could lift it myself. I also took the opportunity to measure crankshaft play. (0.28mm, spec is 0,22-0.43mm)

  • Rear oil seal 
  • Crank bolts. Breaker bar and oomph!
  • Crank cap. Used a piece of wood for leverage.
Crank cap


  • The crank! ~16 kg!
Crank shaft

  • Main bearings. Keep location and direction!
Main bearings

  • And... that's it! 
Now I'll take the block and head to my local engine workshop for cleaning, honing and head port.


2011-12-22

Engine upgrade - part #1 - intro


So I want more power - and have decided to copy Cosworth's 280 crate engine.

  • 13:1 compression ratio
  • Forged pistons and rods
  • New cams
  • Uprated valve springs
  • Ported head
  • Throttle bodies
  • Uprated fuel injectors and regulator
  • MBE ECU + new loom
  • Open oil system with catch tank
In the beginning I thought it could be done without removing too many parts from the engine. I even had a vague vision it could be done with the engine still in the car. The plan was to simply remove the sump, split the head, replace pistons - how hard could it be? But as all parts hold each other together, I have realized that a complete engine tear down was necessary. Something I've never done before, not even close, and I admit I'm a bit nervous.

So I've started to read books on the subject and googled my way to lots of obscure parts of the internet. I have been bugging all kinds of people that knows more than me, and I've been dreaming nightmares about dropping expensive engine parts on the concrete floor.

Most of the parts have been ordered and should arrive any day now. Meanwhile I've started to tear down the engine into a naked block and head.

Next part - Part #2 - Disassemble

All parts:

Engine upgrade part #1 - intro
Engine upgrade part #2 - disassemble
Engine upgrade part #3 - parts
Engine upgrade part #4 - block assembly
Engine upgrade part #5 - head
Engine upgrade part #6 - putting it together
Engine upgrade part #7 - electrical and fuel
Engine upgrade part #8 - first start
Engine upgrade part #9 - final results