2011-12-28

Engine upgrade - part #2 - disassemble



  • Engine out
  • Bell-housing off
  • Clutch off
  • Flywheel off 
  • Mounted engine on stand using bell-housing bolt holes (M10x75 bolts. Use washers to protect the engine.)
  • Intake plenum off
  • Removed loom 
  • Fuel rail and injectors (undo nuts and pull)
  • Coils and plugs
  • Belt and tensioner

Next up was the first challenge - undo the front pulley nut using hand tools . I used a tremendous breaker bar on the pulley nut, and mounted a spanner as opposite lock on the flywheel, using one of  the old flywheel bolts. The spanner was locked against one of the engine stand mounting points. It would have been a lot easier with an impact gun. The pulley bolt shouldn't be reused.



  • Coolant rail + hoses
  • Alternator
  • Starter motor
  • Oil cooler
  • Thermostat
  • Water pump
  • PCV valve + cover
  • Cam cover
  • Front cover

  • Exhaust cam sprocket. 
  • Cam chain
  • Chain guides
  • Oil pump chain tensioner
  • Oil pump sprocket - tough one. I don't know why it was so tight on my engine. 
  • Cam/pump sprocket on main shaft - thin washer on each side.
Cam chain and oil pumps chain

  • Now finally I could remove the sump! Be careful with two bushes with five small o-rings that will fall out.
Cosworth dry sump

Note the o-rings

  • Intake cam sprocket
  • Cam caps and camshafts. Remember location and direction of cam caps.
  • Cam buckets. Remember location of each bucket. The size of the bucket is written on the inside, write down for later.

  • Head off. Torx 55 and breaker bar. But what is that really bad smell!?
Head off

  • Cotters, retainers, springs and valves. Remember location. Hint: Use a strong magnet to remove the cotters.
  • I left the valve seats in place. Hopefully they can stay there.
Removing springs
Ordning och Reda

  • Pistons - will be replaced. Torx 55. Mark them. Direction is already marked as arrows on top of the pistons.
Old pistons

  • Pistons big end bearings. These will also be replaced, but keep location and direction just in case?
  • Since I couldn't reach the crank rear seal bolts when the engine was mounted to the engine stand I took it down on the floor and put it on some pieces of wood. Now it was so light I could lift it myself. I also took the opportunity to measure crankshaft play. (0.28mm, spec is 0,22-0.43mm)

  • Rear oil seal 
  • Crank bolts. Breaker bar and oomph!
  • Crank cap. Used a piece of wood for leverage.
Crank cap


  • The crank! ~16 kg!
Crank shaft

  • Main bearings. Keep location and direction!
Main bearings

  • And... that's it! 
Now I'll take the block and head to my local engine workshop for cleaning, honing and head port.


No comments:

Post a Comment