Engine upgrade - part #8 - first start!!!

Finally it was time for the first start of the engine. The whole family was excited and my wife would help me with operating the throttle pedal, and my kids have promised not to destroy anything and keep out of the way.

• I primed the oil system by cranking the engine without plugs. I expected a oil pressure reading on the gauge but nothing happened. I plugged a volt meter directly to the sender connector, and after a few revolutions I got a reading on the meter, so the reason I didn't see anything before was simply something with the wiring to the oil pressure gauge. Update: It was simply the oil gauge connector on the backside of the dashboard that had fell out.
• Fuel in the tank and connected the fuel pump power. A few on/off with the ignition primed the fuel system.
• Computer connected to ECU, extra starter battery, voltmeter connected, wife in drivers seat, kids out of the way, cameras on and... NOTHING! The starter didn't have enough power to turn the engine! Talk about anti climax!
• Borrowing a starter battery from the daily driver and exchanging the small lightweight racing battery with a more powerful kind.
• Another attempt was made and it started after just a few revolutions!

Next part - Engine upgrade part #9 - final results

All parts:

Engine upgrade part #1 - intro

Engine upgrade part #2 - disassemble

Engine upgrade part #3 - parts

Engine upgrade part #4 - block assembly

Engine upgrade part #5 - head

Engine upgrade part #6 - putting it together

Engine upgrade part #7 - electrical and fuel

Engine upgrade part #8 - first start

Engine upgrade part #9 - final results

Engine upgrade - part #7 - electrical and fuel

My old Ford BlackOak ECU is locked so I needed a new after market ECU. My choice was MBE 9A4, because it already was proved to be working good with Duratecs, but mostly because that was the ECU my local engine builder workshop knew best and also sold parts for.

Duratec loom

As I wrote in a previous post I ordered the ECU and a Duratec loom from SB Motorsport. The loom was missing some 'features' that existed in my previous loom, so quite a lot of wiring was needed. Most if the wireing was made while the engine was in out of the car while waiting for parts. I took the original loom apart and reused the connectors, and removed the wires that was no longer needed. Two relays where already in the new loom, but I needed two more relays for starter solenoid and cooling fans.

• Fan switch relay, controlled by the ECU.
• Starter solenoid coil relay, from ignition key.
• Ignition to ECU, from ignition key.
• Coolant temp, oil pressure, rpm (from ECU), to the dash.
• The lambda sensor connector was of the wrong type.
• Throttle position sensor connector changed, and the TPS was calibrated.
• The air box from Cosworth came with a Bosch MAP sensor with integrated air temperature sensor. It is not necessary with a MAP sensor with roller barrels, but I decided to use it anyway because that way I didn't need a barometer sensor. A few more electric wires from the ECU was needed, and calibration of both temp and MAP sensor. The temp sensor was calibrated using a fridge and an oven. The map sensor is linear so it was easy to calibrate once I figured out the sensor high and low spec values.
• A new coolant sensor was fitted to the coolant elbow in the rear of the engine. I had to manufacture an adapter from a 3/8" NPT to M12x1.5 using pipe parts from the local hardware store.

• The fuel pump controller module which exists on the EU4 model was removed, and a new adjustable fuel regulator was fitted.

• I did a rough adjustment of the fuel regulator using an electric tyre air pump with manometer. Cosworth recommends 4.3 bar for their 280 crate engine.

Next part: Engine upgrade part #8 - First start


All parts:
Engine upgrade part #1 - intro
Engine upgrade part #2 - disassemble
Engine upgrade part #3 - parts
Engine upgrade part #4 - block assembly
Engine upgrade part #5 - head
Engine upgrade part #6 - putting it together
Engine upgrade part #7 - electrical and fuel
Engine upgrade part #8 - first start
Engine upgrade part #9 - final results

Engine upgrade - part #6 - putting it together

• Head and block now back together with new ARP bolts and new gasket. 60 lb/ft in three stages and ARP lube. A dab of sealant on marked spots in the assembly guide.
• Chain guides and cam chain.
• Alternator

• Roller barrels
• New fuel rail and injectors (310 g/min)
• I put the engine on the floor and mounted the flywheel with new OEM bolts. The flywheel could be easily locked using a chisel on the starter ring, holding it against the block.
• The old clutch. I already had the type of clutch used on CSR 260. I used an extended socket I normally use for the spark plugs as centring tool.

• Coolant hoses and coolant rail. I made a simple coolant temp sensor adaptor (M12*1.5 to 3/8" NPT). Or actually, I let the engine builder thread the inner hole because I didn't have the right tap.
• The old hose from the oil tank to sump was plugged using a standard brass 1/2" NPT plug from the hardware store. Here I can save a few grams by changing to an aluminium plug :-)
• Cam chain and camshaft sprockets with new bolts and new friction washers.
• Front cover with sealant

Finding true TDC

• Front pulley. New bolt and new friction washer. First I put cylinder 1 on true TDC, using a dial indicator and pencil. I locked the pulley with a small bolt through the locking hole. A helper hold the flywheel using the rear part of an hammer against the starter ring and a bolt in one of the bell housing holes. With a big breaker bar I could turn the bolt the last 90 degrees. Not easy, but it worked. The cams were not locked during the tightening of the front pulley.

Locked cams

• Then it was time for cam timing. The cams where locked using the timing bar grooves and cylinder 1 was put at true TDC again, and the cam bolts where tighten. The timing was then measured with a dial indicator by turning the engine and with a degree wheel find when the intake and exhaust valves are fully open. To my surprise the timing was spot on and no adjustments were necessary.
• Cam cover
• Belt, belt tensioner
• Starter motor (35 Nm)
• Bellhousing and gearbox (47 Nm)
• Airbox and filter, using thread lock! I don't want any of those screws sucked into the engine.

And... the engine is finished! Time to put it back into the car.

Shoe horning the engine into the car is really frustrating. After some cursing I removed the oil cooler/filter holder and starter motor. Much easier, but maybe not that easy to put them back on.

The brake master cylinder fooled the new air box, so I had to remove some carbon from the air box.

Next part: Engine upgrade part #7 - Electrical and fuel


All parts:
Engine upgrade part #1 - intro
Engine upgrade part #2 - disassemble
Engine upgrade part #3 - parts
Engine upgrade part #4 - block assembly
Engine upgrade part #5 - head
Engine upgrade part #6 - putting it together
Engine upgrade part #7 - electrical and fuel
Engine upgrade part #8 - first start
Engine upgrade part #9 - final results

Engine upgrade - part #5 - head

The head is back, ported nice and smooth, valve seats refurnished and the old valves grinded.

Refurnished valve seats

Smooth inlet

• Fitted new valve seals. Just press them in place with a socket large enough.
• Installed the valves with uprated Cosworth springs

Valves, springs, retainers and cotters

• Put back the old cam followers and installed the new camshafts. 
• Measured cam to valve clearances "lash" with feeler gauges. According to Cosworth the clearance should be inlet 0.22 – 0.28mm and exhaust 0.27 – 0.30mm for my cams. They were all off since the refurnished valve seats made the valves to sink deeper into the the valve seats. To be sure I moved around the old buckets and remeasured several times, but the readings were not that consistent, and some clearances was too small for even the smallest feeler gauge. 
• Eventually I had a complete list of the sizes I needed with 13 new buckets. A few of the sizes was more or less guesses, so I was prepared to order a couple more later on.  Finding a retailer with the buckets in stock was not easy, but to the rescue was SBD Motorsport who had them shipped within a couple of days. Cosworth also had them in stock, but to quote someone well known in the business - "nothing is fast from Cosworth other than their engines". 
• Meanwhile I fitted the head back to the block with new ARP studs and a new gasket. No problems but I was really close to drop a washer into an oil gallery.. Phew..
• Doh! Measuring lash before attaching the head to the block was a bad idea. Some of the measurements have changed (and some was more or less guesses to begin with). A new order to SBD, luckily the delivery was only a couple of days.

Finding TDC using a pencil and a dial indicator

• Buckets in place and lash within spec
• Camshafts in place with lots of assembly lube.

Next part: Engine upgrade part #6 - Putting it together


All parts:
Engine upgrade part #1 - intro
Engine upgrade part #2 - disassemble
Engine upgrade part #3 - parts
Engine upgrade part #4 - block assembly
Engine upgrade part #5 - head
Engine upgrade part #6 - putting it together
Engine upgrade part #7 - electrical and fuel
Engine upgrade part #8 - first start
Engine upgrade part #9 - final results