Engine upgrade - part #7 - electrical and fuel

My old Ford BlackOak ECU is locked so I needed a new after market ECU. My choice was MBE 9A4, because it already was proved to be working good with Duratecs, but mostly because that was the ECU my local engine builder workshop knew best and also sold parts for.

Duratec loom

As I wrote in a previous post I ordered the ECU and a Duratec loom from SB Motorsport. The loom was missing some 'features' that existed in my previous loom, so quite a lot of wiring was needed. Most if the wireing was made while the engine was in out of the car while waiting for parts. I took the original loom apart and reused the connectors, and removed the wires that was no longer needed. Two relays where already in the new loom, but I needed two more relays for starter solenoid and cooling fans.

• Fan switch relay, controlled by the ECU.
• Starter solenoid coil relay, from ignition key.
• Ignition to ECU, from ignition key.
• Coolant temp, oil pressure, rpm (from ECU), to the dash.
• The lambda sensor connector was of the wrong type.
• Throttle position sensor connector changed, and the TPS was calibrated.
• The air box from Cosworth came with a Bosch MAP sensor with integrated air temperature sensor. It is not necessary with a MAP sensor with roller barrels, but I decided to use it anyway because that way I didn't need a barometer sensor. A few more electric wires from the ECU was needed, and calibration of both temp and MAP sensor. The temp sensor was calibrated using a fridge and an oven. The map sensor is linear so it was easy to calibrate once I figured out the sensor high and low spec values.
• A new coolant sensor was fitted to the coolant elbow in the rear of the engine. I had to manufacture an adapter from a 3/8" NPT to M12x1.5 using pipe parts from the local hardware store.

• The fuel pump controller module which exists on the EU4 model was removed, and a new adjustable fuel regulator was fitted.

• I did a rough adjustment of the fuel regulator using an electric tyre air pump with manometer. Cosworth recommends 4.3 bar for their 280 crate engine.

Next part: Engine upgrade part #8 - First start


All parts:
Engine upgrade part #1 - intro
Engine upgrade part #2 - disassemble
Engine upgrade part #3 - parts
Engine upgrade part #4 - block assembly
Engine upgrade part #5 - head
Engine upgrade part #6 - putting it together
Engine upgrade part #7 - electrical and fuel
Engine upgrade part #8 - first start
Engine upgrade part #9 - final results