Showing posts with label mapping. Show all posts
Showing posts with label mapping. Show all posts

2012-05-15

Wideband lambda

I've installed an Innovate LC-1 wideband Lambda controller connected to my MBE 9A4 ECU.

A wideband lambda output a linear 0-5V AFR (air/fuel ratio) sensor reading for a wide range of lambda values, in contrast to an ordinary lambda sensor that output more like a narrow rich/lean reading compared to a fixed reference. This makes it possible for the ECU to real time control the fuel mixture to a set value, based on the these readings - "closed loop lambda control".

The 9A4 also supports a long term AFR adjustment map, a bit like "self mapping". Some of the difference between the expected and measured lambda value is written to the long term adjustment fuel map, so the next time it is time fire the injectors for the same conditions it uses the updated value. For making the changes persistent to the primary fuel map you manually have to select to merge the long term map into the primary map with a computer connected to the ECU. The long term map is cleared after ECU power loss.

This sounds a bit too good to be true, and probably is. I've done some internet forum digging and it seems like it is not recommended to use closed loop lambda control when the engine is under high load, although the reasons why are a bit vague. For medium load and idle it seems to be no reasons not to use it. And for logging ECU data a wideband lambda sensor is a great tool.

However it won't work unless you have a pretty good base map to begin with.

The wiring was a bit fiddly and time consuming but pretty straight forward.

It took some trial and error to figure out how to program the ECU, so I thought I'd do the world a favour by showing my setup for the LC-1 controller configured with factory defaults. (Analogue 2 output from the controller into the ECU, brown wire).

Start with the "Analog Lambda Sensor 16 bit Index Map" setting. This tells the ECU the sensor input is linear and the interesting voltage range is between 0 and 5V.


Then "Analog Lambda Sensor Calibration" setting. This is what voltage corresponds to what lambda value. This is for the factory settings, 0V = lambda 0.5 and 5V = lambda 1.523.


Set the Oxygen Sensor lower and upper limits settings to 0 and 5V.

And finally you must have a target lambda map. Target lambda 1.0 at idle, and lower (richer) for more power at load.

Target lambda map. NOTE! The values used here are quite lean!!

Start the engine, and if all readings seems fine you can activate lambda control by setting "Lambda A (1) Control Enable".

After about 30 seconds from engine start, the ECU should start to adjust the engine's AFR to follow the current target lambda.


2012-04-06

Engine upgrade - part #9 - final results



So far the engine have behaved extremely well and almost no problems at all. A bad battery connector, small coolant leak because of a loose jubilee clip, oil filler cap leak, but nothing serious.

Then it was time for a rolling road session at Turbocenter. It was kind of the ultimate test to see if the build was successful or if the engine would dissolve in a puff of smoke. The first time Claus took it to rev limiter my hands were shaking and my heart was up my mouth, but it held together!




As you can see in the video, in the beginning there was some problems with tyre slip against the rollers. I left the car with them for a week while going for a well needed vacation and I'm not sure how he solved the tire slip, but I think he tied down the roll cage to the floor. 




The final result is: 231 hp on the rear wheels @7500 rpm. Max torque ~230Nm. It would for sure be interesting to know how much that power would equal on the flywheel, but that is impossible to find out. Google it and you'll find lots of opinions on this subject. The loss is dependant on gearing, tyre wear, tyre air pressure, moon phase etc etc and even compare the same car on the same dyno two different days could generate different results. But I guess crank power around 270-280 hp is within reason.

As seen on the chart I have a problem maintaining constant fuel pressure when power increases. The reason for this could be many, leaking low quality fuel regulator, insufficient fuel pump, clogged fuel filter, too narrow fuel lines. Before buying a new pump Claus recommended me to move the fuel regulator to the end of the fuel rail, and put the fuel return line from there. He had a neat solution for this and I might give that a go further on.

I also have a power plateau around 4500 rpm. I don't know why. Could it be the exhaust system? I leave it as it is for a while and let all this digest until I feel ready to handle it.

Immediately when I got the car I took it on a test drive. It is early April and the roads are cold and my tyres have almost no rubber at all, but on all of the first four gears I got wheel spin when getting into the engine's power band!! This is crazy!

UPDATE: A test run this morning. Here is a 110-190 km/h comparison before and after:


Special thanks to:

Hanns Per Kober
Jeremy at Cosworth
Steve at SBD Motorsport
Claus at Turbocenter
Jan at ENEM

Also thanks to:
Kenneth at Motortjänst
Nacka Biltrim
Helpful members at Focaljet


All parts:
Engine upgrade part #1 - intro
Engine upgrade part #2 - disassemble
Engine upgrade part #3 - parts
Engine upgrade part #4 - block assembly
Engine upgrade part #5 - head
Engine upgrade part #6 - putting it together
Engine upgrade part #7 - electrical and fuel
Engine upgrade part #8 - first start
Engine upgrade part #9 - final results