- Engine out
 - Bell-housing off
 - Clutch off
 - Flywheel off
 - Mounted engine on stand using bell-housing bolt holes (M10x75 bolts. Use washers to protect the engine.)
 - Intake plenum off
 - Removed loom
 - Fuel rail and injectors (undo nuts and pull)
 - Coils and plugs
 - Belt and tensioner
 
Next up was the first challenge - undo the front pulley nut using hand tools . I used a tremendous breaker bar on the pulley nut, and mounted a spanner as opposite lock on the flywheel, using one of  the old flywheel bolts. The spanner was locked against one of the engine stand mounting points. It would have been a lot easier with an impact gun. The pulley bolt shouldn't be reused.
- Coolant rail + hoses
 - Alternator
 - Starter motor
 - Oil cooler
 - Thermostat
 - Water pump
 - PCV valve + cover
 - Cam cover
 - Front cover
 
- Exhaust cam sprocket.
 - Cam chain
 - Chain guides
 - Oil pump chain tensioner
 - Oil pump sprocket - tough one. I don't know why it was so tight on my engine.
 - Cam/pump sprocket on main shaft - thin washer on each side.
 
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| Cam chain and oil pumps chain | 
- Now finally I could remove the sump! Be careful with two bushes with five small o-rings that will fall out.
 
- Intake cam sprocket
 - Cam caps and camshafts. Remember location and direction of cam caps.
 - Cam buckets. Remember location of each bucket. The size of the bucket is written on the inside, write down for later.
 
- Head off. Torx 55 and breaker bar. But what is that really bad smell!?
 
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| Head off | 
- Cotters, retainers, springs and valves. Remember location. Hint: Use a strong magnet to remove the cotters.
 - I left the valve seats in place. Hopefully they can stay there.
 
- Pistons - will be replaced. Torx 55. Mark them. Direction is already marked as arrows on top of the pistons.
 
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| Old pistons | 
- Pistons big end bearings. These will also be replaced, but keep location and direction just in case?
 
- Since I couldn't reach the crank rear seal bolts when the engine was mounted to the engine stand I took it down on the floor and put it on some pieces of wood. Now it was so light I could lift it myself. I also took the opportunity to measure crankshaft play. (0.28mm, spec is 0,22-0.43mm)
 
- Rear oil seal
 - Crank bolts. Breaker bar and oomph!
 - Crank cap. Used a piece of wood for leverage.
 
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| Crank cap | 
- The crank! ~16 kg!
 
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| Crank shaft | 
- Main bearings. Keep location and direction!
 
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| Main bearings | 
- And... that's it!
 
Now I'll take the block and head to my local engine workshop for cleaning, honing and head port.
Next part - Engine upgrade part #3 - Parts
All parts:
Engine upgrade part #1 - intro
Engine upgrade part #2 - disassemble
Engine upgrade part #3 - parts
Engine upgrade part #4 - block assembly
Engine upgrade part #5 - head
Engine upgrade part #6 - putting it together
Engine upgrade part #7 - electrical and fuel
Engine upgrade part #8 - first start
Engine upgrade part #9 - final results















