Showing posts with label clutch. Show all posts
Showing posts with label clutch. Show all posts

2013-06-26

Cranks and rpm limit

A Duratec 2.3 engine can safely be revved up to 7200 rpm with the standard valve springs. With uprated springs it the limiting factor is the crank and according to Cosworth it can be revved up to 7700 rpm with the standard crank. Above that, a very expensive steel crank is needed. (source)

Balanced crank and front pulley
Among other places, a thread on Pistonheads several people writes that the standard crank may be up for more than 7700 rpm. On my engine the power curve was still climbing when I hit the rev limiter and I would probably gain some top end power if I could raise the RPM limit to say 8000.

What kills a crank is not power or torque, it is RPM. The force on the crank is exponential to the rpm. (source missing) That's why forced induction engines can have very much power and still use the standard crank, as long the rpm limit is kept down. Apparently the forces are specially high during downshifting.

I wrote an email to a Ford Focus engine builder and asked about their view on the subject.

"For us we have a race car and we redlined it at 8500 with no problems ever. But the engine was balanced and we even balanced it with the flywheel and clutch to make sure it was perfect! It can be done but just take all precautions needed..."

I did a simulation in Optimum Lap and a 8000 rev limit would do about 0.5 seconds on Mantorp. Not much and I'm doubtful it is worth the extra risk and engine wear, but as my engine is in pieces I went to a engine workshop anyway to have my crank, pulley, flywheel and clutch balanced. It doesn't cost much and it would decrease the loads on the bearings even if I increase the rev limit or not. I also hope it would reduce some vibrations at high rpm making it easier to stay focused on the race track.

Balanced clutch and flywheel
The mechanic explained they put the crank in their machine and start rotating the crank and measuring the imbalance. After some adjustments by removing metal the balance "was zero" and he put on the flywheel and balanced again. Then the clutch and finally the front pulley. That way individual components can be replaced without the need to rebalance the crank. On V engines the weight of the crank counterweights depend on the weight of the rod and piston. That is not true for inline-4 engines as there is always the same weight going the opposite direction. (as long as the piston/rod assemblies are of equal weights, which they normally are if bought as a set)

More very informative reading about cranks here.












2011-03-10

Cracked clutch disc - engine out!

I always had troubles downshifting at high RPM. Always when trying to engage second gear when going into an hairpin I had to struggle until the revs dropped. My upshifts weren't that fast either, but within reason. After consulting lots of people I just couldn't diagnose what the problem was. Everything went smooth when standing still and at normal road driving.

One day I had enough and decided to take the engine out and investigate what the problem was.


Cracked clutch disc. At high RPMs the centrifugal force would make the loose part of the disc move outward and touch the clutch cover, making it not fully disengage.


So what I learned about taking the engine out was:


  • Write down and take photos of all connectors and hoses, and where they should be.
  • Take your time and have someone to help you!
  • You need a crane.
  • Be sure that you put the gearbox mount at the right way when the engine is going back in, or you have to take it out again (ask me how I know this).
  • There is a way to get the engine out. The exhaust outlet is really in the way, but if you rotate the exhaust so the cat points upwards/forward there is enough room. Take your time to avoid any damage to the body panels. If your exhaust manifold is not welded together it will be much easier because it can be removed completely.
  • You have to remove the steering rod.
  • Engine oil and coolant will be all over the floor, be sure to drain as much as you can before disconnecting anything.
  • You don't have to drain the engine oil if you take the gearbox out with the engine.
  • The engine mounts are hard to put back. Small hands would help.

And what a change! The new clutch completely transformed the car. What a relief!